Founded by Manolo Rodriguez in June 1989, the business began as a market rooted in Argentine food and family tradition. Paul took over in 2009, after his father retired because of health problems, and the shop has since grown into a dining room and community meeting point.
Its football identity is impossible to miss. Framed shirts hang above the meat counter, while a mural shows Messi holding the World Cup trophy. During Argentina’s group-stage meeting with Algeria, the restaurant filled before the biggest moments, with supporters standing on tables, singing and queuing outside.
The menu reinforces the connection to Argentina, featuring chimichurri, alfajores, yerba mate, Malbec, empanadas and family-style sausages. For Marianella Montenegro, who emigrated from Argentina and works at the restaurant, the feeling is immediate: “You open the door, and you're in Argentina.”
That welcome extends beyond match days. Rodriguez says new arrivals often come looking for advice about where to stay, where to go and who to ask for help. Generations of customers have also returned, preserving a link between the original market and the community it serves today.
Messi has given the gathering an added emotional charge. Rodriguez believes the prospect of Messi’s final World Cup taking place while Argentina defend their title carries particular weight for expatriate supporters.
The atmosphere has also attracted fans from Mexico, Jordan, Israel and Egypt, all joining Argentines in singing for Messi with Quilmes in hand.
The next test comes on Tuesday, when Argentina face Egypt. If the previous watch party is any guide, Mercado Buenos Aires may once again be full long before the opening whistle.